| Name | 12v 6Ah LiFePO4 Battery |
|---|---|
| Nominal Voltage | 12.8V |
| Nominal Current | 6AH |
| Nominal Capacity | 76.8Wh |
| Size:(length×width×height) | 90x70x101mm / 3.6x2.8x4in |
| Weight | 0.7Kg/1.6Lbs |
| Cycle Life | ＞4000cycle (0.2C,25℃,90%DOD) |
| Ingress Protection Rating (IP65＞IP55) | IP65 (Highest level of protection from dust, protection from low pressure water spraying for 3 minutes） |
| Standard Charge Voltage | 14.6±0.2V |
| Standard Charge Current | 1.2A，5℃(41℉)＜@T＜55℃(131℉) |
| Allowed Max. Charge Current | 6A，5℃(41℉)＜@T＜55℃(131℉) |
| Standard Discharge Current | 6A，-15℃(5℉)＜@T＜70℃(158℉) |
| Allowed Max. Continuous Discharge Current | 9A，-15℃(5℉)＜@T＜70℃(158℉) |
| Allowed Max. Pulse Discharge Current（long pulse） | 12A，@T＜3min or @T＜70℃(158℉) |
| Allowed Max. Pulse Discharge Current（short pulse） | 18A，@T＜3s or @T＜70℃(158℉) |
| Battery Ceryifications | UN38.3（Battery）、Msds（Battery）、ios9001 (Brand Certification), etc |
September 8, 2024
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zoppetti –
So I previously trashed this product in a similar way to the other 1 star review due to my lack of knowledge on how these batteries work. These batteries have internal battery management systems (BMS) which cutoff the current at 10V and cause the batteries to read 0V. I was under the impression this was either a “recommended cutoff” on the datasheet or the BMS would cut the current and then restart a moment later like many other BMS’s do. When looking online, many people stated the drop to 0V was part of the protection circuit and was permanent: This isn’t true!
These batteries are designed to go into a sleep mode when they reach 10V and will wake up when voltage is applied from a charger. This is actually an incredibly useful feature for my application of using these as a portable power bank for heated motorcycle gear. I no longer need to worry about over discharge. I can just let the internal cutoff activate if the cells get too low (obviously this isn’t preferred, but will work in a pinch if I run the batteries longer than normal).
Now here’s the issue: The charger I’m using, which is a smart charger for sealed lead acid (SLA) and Li Ion batteries used in cars, needs to detect the voltage coming from the battery to turn on charging. As a result, it does not send out any voltage of its own and will not wake up a sleeping battery. To turn the batteries back on, I VERY quickly tapped a 9v battery across the terminals of the battery (another 12v battery would have been better), positive to positive and negative to negative. This supplied the needed voltage to wake up the BMS and allow the 11.2 or so volts remaining to be present on the terminals once again. Now my smart charger could detect the battery and charge it like normal.
Yes, the battery had 11.2V when the cutoff is 10V. This is not a defect in the BMS, rather, the voltage will sag under load to 10V, the cutoff will activate, and when the battery is woken up it will once again read the non-sagging “open circuit” voltage as there is no load any more.
Overall I’m very happy with the 3 batteries I bought which arrived with identical voltages, perfect for parallel configurations. They have more power than I was expecting and should easily run my heated gear for 2+ hours on max heat. Being able the use a standard SLA charger and having an automatic low voltage cutoff makes these a versatile power source for many projects. Just make sure you have a way to “wake up” a battery that has reached the low voltage cutoff; either another battery or a non-smart charger.
Here’s the result of my discharge test for those who are curious about how much power these have. I’m using 3 batteries in parallel for roughly 18Ah of capacity (Series configurations are not recommended without a BMS, and even then, these batteries have internal BMS’s so most people wouldn’t recommend series configurations at all. I’ll leave you to decide if you want to run series or not). I was powering a heated vest which consumes 5 amps at max heat and has 5 power settings. You can very roughly estimate that each power setting draws 1 amp (setting 1 is 1 amp, setting 2 is 2 amps, etc.), but the actual current draw is likely higher based on my testing. Here’s the results:
Heat 1 for 1.5 hours
Heat 2 for 3 hours
Heat 4 for 2 hours
At this point the low voltage cutoff activated around 6.5 hours after I started running the heater! Obviously this isn’t even remotely scientific as I used different settings and the only power setting that I can check the current draw accurately on is setting 5 which draws 5 amps (other settings use PWM so my cheap multi-meter is pretty useless). I’m pretty happy with these results and this pack should power my gear for a few hours with medium heat settings.